Instructions for Use

CeCe Caldwells's Paints at Keys to the Attic

 

Paint  |  Clear Wax  |  Aging Cream (light and dark)  |  Waxing Cream  |
Satin Finish  | Endurance Finish  |  Clear Glaze  |  Aging Dust  |  General Safety Notes

 

 

Paint

Clean and dry object to be painted.  Vigorously shake can for 1-2 minutes. Remove lid and stir thoroughly.  With a good quality brush or roller, apply one coat.  Allow paint to dry (2-4 hours).  As the paint dries it is going to become much lighter than it is when it is wet.  Apply second coat, if needed, and allow to dry again.  You can burnish with piece of brown kraft paper or very fine grit sanding block over your piece before or after you apply your finish coat.

  • Clean and dry the object to be painted using a quality cleaner.  I typically use watered-down TSP or Simple Green.
    Remember:  although a piece may look like it is in great condition – and it may be –  we really don’t know where anything used has been, what it was used for and what it may have been exposed to.
  • Vigorously shake the can for 1-2 minutes, then stir thoroughly.
  • Apply first coat.  Allow to dry. As the paint dries it is going to become much lighter than it is when it is wet.  The paint will darken again once the finish is applied.
  • Apply second coat, if desired.
    Note:  Some woods contain tannins that will bleed through ANY paint, therefore you may need to spot prime if you get a bleed through after your first coat of paint.
  • Use a damp cloth (not wet) to create a distressed appearance.
  • You can burnish with piece of brown kraft paper or very fine grit sanding block over your piece before or after you apply your finish coat.
    Note:  A finish (wax, satin finish or finish of your choice) must be applied after painting.  One of the attractive features about this paint is its all natural chalk and clay base – but, without a protective finish the paint will run off.

 

Clear Wax

  • Before first use stir well, mixing wax from bottom into upper layers of wax, as the pigment has a tendency to settle to the bottom of container. 
  • Apply sparingly with a soft brush to surface that has been treated with Clear Wax or Satin Finish.  
  • It becomes thin (like an oil) as you work with it.  
  • Feather into areas that you to appear aged.
  • Remove any extreme excess. 
  • Leave more cream in the areas that you want the deeper pigmentation. 
  • Remove all cream from areas that you do not want an aged appearance. 
  • Allow to rest several minutes, before wiping away all excess. 
  • Apply a second coat if needed for deeper color. 
  • The cream takes longer to dry than wax. Do not over saturate your wood with the wax.  
  • Build color slowly.
  • Use only a soft cloth to buff. 
  • Aging Cream goes on much lighter, straight from the container, than most dark waxes.  
  • For a harder finish, apply a coat of the Clear Wax several days after the application of the Aging Cream.  
  • Aging Cream and all pigmented waxes take practice.  
  • Always work on a sample board prior to first use.  Different personal techniques can achieve similar results.  Practice on a sample boards helps you develop your personal application method that works best for your desired results.

 

Aging Cream (light and dark)

  • Before first use stir well, mixing wax from bottom into upper layers of wax, as the pigment has a tendency to settle to the bottom of container. 
  • Apply sparingly with a soft brush to surface that has been treated with Clear Wax or Satin Finish.  
  • It becomes thin (like an oil) as you work with it.  
  • Feather into areas that you to appear aged.
  • Remove any extreme excess. 
  • Leave more cream in the areas that you want the deeper pigmentation. 
  • Remove all cream from areas that you do not want an aged appearance. 
  • Allow to rest several minutes, before wiping away all excess. 
  • Apply a second coat if needed for deeper color. 
  • The cream takes longer to dry than wax. Do not over saturate your wood with the wax.  
  • Build color slowly.
  • Use only a soft cloth to buff. 
  • Aging Cream goes on much lighter, straight from the container, than most dark waxes.  
  • For a harder finish, apply a coat of the Clear Wax several days after the application of the Aging Cream.  
  • Aging Cream and all pigmented waxes take practice.  
  • Always work on a sample board prior to first use.  Different personal techniques can achieve similar results.  Practice on a sample boards helps you develop your personal application method that works best for your desired results.

 

Waxing Cream

  • Apply Waxing Cream with a flat (not pointed) bottom brush or with a piece of lint-free cheese cloth.  
  • Apply a VERY thin coat of Waxing Cream; similar to the amount that you would have on a paint brush if you were dry brushing with paint.  SPARINGLY is the word!  
  • Rub/buff in with a cloth/rag.  
  • Most find this thin, first coat is ALL that is needed.  It shines up quickly with a light buffing.  
  • Add a second coat if needed/desired. 
  • This is the same way I apply the Clear Wax, only I make sure I have even less on my brush than with the Clear.  
  • The number one mistake made with any wax is over applying it. With all waxes, you will achieve best results if you do 2 light coats versus one heavy coat. If you are getting splotching – you have applied too much.   
  • For continued shine and protection, re-apply the clear wax every 6-12 months under normal conditions. 
  • NOTE: We are finding there may have be some separation occurring in shipment with it getting warm in the trucks, so stir lightly to make sure it is well mixed.
  • ADVANTAGES OF WAXING CREAM:
  • — Uses less wax to achieve better results (more economical)
  • — Less effort (buffing) needed to get higher shine
  • — Deeper penetration of wax into the paint

 

Satin Finish

  • Satin Finish is a durable topcoat. 
  • Stir well before use.  Do NOT shake the can, as this will produce bubbles.  
  • It should be applied over painted surfaces in a thin, even coat with a fine brush, foam brush.
  • For ease of application, it can be applied diluted with approximately 25% water, using several light coats to achieve a durable finish.  
  • For a hand-waxed feel, after final coat of Satin Finish has dried completely, you may apply Clear Wax Or Waxing Cream on top of the Satin Finish.  
  • Give you piece a light sanding with Kraft paper or very high grit sand paper, then wax.  This product requires several weeks to fully cure. 
  • Freshly finished surfaces should be kept free of moisture and heavy objects. 
  • Heavy use should be avoided for a week or so.  
  • A single coat Satin Finish may be diluted 50/50 with water for use on projects not receiving daily use (for example, a picture frame).

 

Endurance Finish

  • Apply Endurance over thoroughly dried paint or stain.  
  • Twenty four hours of drying is recommended before you apply to ensure no moisture is trapped between the paint and the finish coat.  
  • Up to six layers can be used for the ultimate protection of a surface.  
  • To apply, always work in the direction of the grain, using a foam brush, staining pad or high quality synthetic brush.
  • Swirl container to mix.  Do not shake.  If any product separation has occurred, gently and slowly stir to reincorporate.
  •  Apply THIN, even layers.    
  • Allow each layer to dry completely prior to application of the next layer.
  • After every second layer, lightly sand with a very fine sandpaper or piece of brown Kraft paper.
  • Burnish you final coat with a piece of brown Kraft paper (a grocery bag is great, low cost source of raft paper, but use unprinted side).  
  • Use 6 layers on surfaces such as the tops of a family dining table, coffee table or end table.  Endurance is the finish recommended for cabinetry and tabletops.  It is a satin finish for indoor use.  
  • Endurance is non-yellowing.  If you desired an aged appearance, we suggest you use our Clear Glaze tinted under the Endurance to achieve the desired effect.

 

Clear Glaze

  • Glaze is generally used as a enhancing technique rather than a final finish.  
  • Clear Glaze can be tinted with dry pigments, universal tints or CeCe Caldwell’s Paints to achieve the desired color or it can be used clear to give a light sheen to décor items that will not be handled regularly (i.e.picture frames). 
  • A prep layer of uncolored Clear Glaze is recommended for novice users as it allows more open time to work with the colored Glaze. 
  • Into needed amount of Clear Glaze, add a few drops of the CeCe Caldwell’s Paints until reaching the preferred shade.  Virginia Chestnut will make a tea colored Glaze, Virginia Chestnut with a touch of Vermont Slate will produce a tobacco colored glaze.  Adding Beckley Coal will give you a gray to black glaze, dependent on ratio.  
  • Mix well.  
  • Apply with brush, sponge or rag to furniture. 
  • Work in small sections and keep a wet edge. 
  • Glaze can be moved around on surface to create the desired look.
  • Generally, the color is more concentrated around decorative details and outer edges and becoming more subtle toward the center of a flat surface. However, it can be used for an overall aged effect. 
  • A coat of Endurance or Satin Finish is recommended to give your piece a long lasting finish.

 

Aging Dust

  • Apply a thin coat of Clear Wax to project piece.
  • While wax is still tacky, sprinkle a small amount of Aging Dust onto crevices, carved details, corners and other areas that would have naturally collected dust over the decades.  
  • Work the Aging Dust into these areas with a soft brush. 
  • Spread excess toward flat surfaces. 
  • Let sit for 20-30 minutes while wax dries. 
  • Remove any excess with a soft cloth. 
  • Buff item well after wax has dried completely.

 

 

General Safety Notes

  • ANY time you sand a dry film we recommend you use Personal Protection Equipment to ensure you do not inhale any of the dust.  
  • Never cut into old layers of paint on a project if you are not 100% sure it does not contain lead-based paint.  
  • You do not want to release the lead into your environment.

 

6 thoughts on “Instructions for Use

    1. Keys to the Attic, LLC Post author

      The satin finish and endurance finish are liquid finishes that cure pretty much immediately. The waxing cream I would give about a week just to be sure. Note: The endurance finish is our only product that is not 100% natural, but it has extremely low VOC.

      Reply
    1. Keys to the Attic, LLC Post author

      The wax needs about 30 days to FULLY cure. Therefore, I would not suggest putting items with a heavy weight on top until curing is complete. But, I put smaller, lighter items on top of furniture that has been waxed prior to full curing all of the time. Another alternative is our other finishes, as in the waxing cream, satin finish or endurance finish … the latter two which are used for more high traffic surfaces.

      Reply
  1. Danika

    Can I use clear wax under endurance finish? And how long would I need to wait in between? Also how long before I can use my piece? I painted a kitchen table 🙂

    Reply
    1. Keys to the Attic, LLC Post author

      Hi Danika ~

      So, I’m gonna have to answer a question with a question (don’t you hate that??) … LOL. But, why would you want to use Clear Wax under the Endurance Cream? You would just be using two finishes on top of each other and that is a waste of money. So, if this is a dining room table, my recommendations would be that you use the Endurance Cream. Use a few very thin coats (depending on how much shine you want) – because this stuff goes a long, long way and wait 18 – 24 hours between each coat.

      Call me if you want to talk about your project and I will help you 🙂

      Catherine ~

      Reply

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