Want to share a great project that one of my BFF’s (does anyone even use that anymore?) from high school did. Pam was looking to change up her bathroom a little bit and decided to paint the cabinet. Pam used CeCe Caldwell’s Michigan Pine ~ distressed ~ then finished up with the Satin Finish. Here’s what Pam said when one of our other friends asked what she did to prepare:
“I did not do any prepping other than taping and removing hardware. I just winged it and started painting. It dries very dull, chalk like, but then the satin finish I applied, changed that look. I literally completed this in less than 2 hours.”
Great job, Pam!!
A few weeks back a purchased this single, beat up end table at a thrift store that I just knew had promise.
Great for a chalk & clay paint project!
Though it was quite beat up and drab, it was in very sturdy condition. So, I got the paint brushes out and went to town. I used Alaskan Tundra Green for the body and Omaha Ochre for the drawer and stenciling. Some things to take note of about this piece is that the top was quite shiny and the other areas were a mix of shiny and wear. If I had to start over again, I have to say that I may have sanded this baby down just a little bit prior to painting – nothing extreme, but just a little once over.
I waxed the entire table, with the exception of the top and two shelves. I ended up doing a satin finish on those because I wanted to seal in my stencil work. When I waxed the shelves, some really strange patterns took place and it looked like the Satin Finish was literally wiping off the paint. So, I just walked away and ignored it (very calmly, I might add).
Satin Finish acting weird.
Thank goodness, when I came back later – after the Satin Finish had completely dried – it looked totally normal. Whew! And this is my After picture 🙂
Click on the image on enlarge.
Wax Brushes and Drill Buffing Brush ~ Keys to the Attic
Just want to give everybody a “heads up” that the 2″ and 1.5″ wax brushes are in and we are fully stocked.
I thought it would be a good idea to give you an update on my last upholstery class before the next class (tomorrow night).
So, we started this night by stapling on some padded ribbing to the front of the chair. This is so when you sit, the underside of your knees don’t hurt from the edge of the wood.
The next step was super easy. I simply laid paper over the seat of the chair and traced. The traced paper is what will be used to cut the foam.
Next, I laid down stuffing – lots of stuffing on the chair. When I put the stuffing down, it sort of looked like it was kinda high, but not the case. The important thing to remember here is that you have to pat the stuffing down all over to make sure there aren’t any holes. The stuffing needs to feel even to the touch.
Time to cut the foam. The neatest trick to this is that we cut the foam using an electric Meat Cutter! Yep, that thing that you use to slice up a ham, roast or turkey … so cool!!
After placing the foam on top of the stuffing, I took scraps of burlap and secured the foam to the seat of the chair using an adhesive spray. This was pretty easy, but messy. Then stapling the bottom of the burlap strips to the chair frame.
I ended the night by measuring the width and length of the seat and cutting my fabric. Tomorrow night I’ll start putting the fabric on the chair 🙂